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First-layer adhesion is the single biggest factor in whether a print succeeds. Get the bed right and most prints just work; get it wrong and even the best filament won't save you. Understanding bed materials, surface treatments, and heating characteristics will save you hundreds of failed prints.
Bed surfaces and when each one wins.
PEI (textured spring steel):
Best for: PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU. Most filaments.
Pros: durable, washes clean, no adhesives needed, magnetic
(snap on/off for print removal).
Cons: PETG can stick TOO well and rip out chunks — use a release agent
(glue stick) for PETG.
Care: clean with isopropyl alcohol; refresh every 50-100 prints.
PEI (smooth):
Best for: PLA, PETG, ABS — when you want glassy bottoms.
Pros: prints have a mirror-finish bottom.
Cons: same PETG sticking issue; can lose grip after many prints.
Glass (borosilicate):
Best for: any filament with a thin glue or hairspray layer.
Pros: dead flat, durable, cheap to replace.
Cons: requires adhesive (glue stick, hairspray, magigoo); fragile;
no magnetic removal.
Garolite (G10) / Tufnol:
Best for: nylon (PA), polycarbonate.
Pros: nylon naturally adheres without adhesive.
Cons: niche; only useful for PA family materials.
Painter's tape / blue tape:
Best for: emergency PLA prints when nothing else works.
Pros: cheap, sticks to anything, peelable.
Cons: amateur look; tape lasts only a few prints.
BuildTak / FlexPlate (with magnet):
Best for: PLA primarily.
Pros: flexible removal, durable.
Cons: degrades with hot ABS prints; can leave residue.
Bed temperature ranges:
PLA: 55-65°C (heat is mostly for adhesion, not material temp)
PETG: 70-85°C
ABS: 95-110°C
ASA: 95-110°C
TPU: 25-50°C (room temp often works)
Nylon: 70-90°C (with garolite, possibly higher with PEI)
PC: 100-120°C